France is pressing ahead with groundbreaking legislation that targets ultra-fast fashion brands like Shein and Temu. The bill, passed by the Senate and heading to a joint committee, introduces an eco-score rating system and applies environmental charges of up to €10 per item by 2030. Advertising of ultra-fast fashion would also be banned, with heavy fines for influencers caught promoting unsustainable brands
For Africa, where secondhand clothing known as mitumba is both a cultural staple and a livelihood for millions, this development cannot be ignored. Sam Quashi-Idun of Greenpeace Africa emphasizes what’s at stake: usable clothes are welcome, but waste is poisoning the environment. He adds, “I hope that other countries will follow what France is doing in terms of legislation.”
The stakes are multifaceted. On one hand, the bill is a milestone in holding global brands to account and stemming textile waste. On the other, it poses risks for communities that depend on affordable clothing imports and the informal economy of markets like Accra’s Kantamanto, where recycling and resale are livelihoods
Experts warn this needs to be a global dialogue not one-size-fits-all regulation. Africa’s creative economy, repurposing the world’s discard into local opportunity, must be involved in shaping any new policies. Disposal shouldn’t be unilateral, and responsibility shouldn’t just fall upon the recipient markets. In the face of fast fashion’s environmental and social fallout, Africa deserves an equitable, collaborative response.